A Desert Oasis

IT STARTED AS A cross-country road trip to see friends in Sedona, Arizona. Afterward, almost on a whim, my wife and I opted to head to Palm Springs, California, to see the city so many Hollywood celebrities have called home. After a whirlwind three days, the location exceeded all our expectations, and we left totally smitten, vowing to return at our next opportunity.

AN OASIS

Called by many “Hollywood’s Desert Playground,” this sparkling oasis, a little over 100 miles east of Los Angeles, is located in the Coachella Valley desert and ringed on all sides by mountains, providing a picturesque backdrop to the iconic palms that give the city its name.

Hollywood discovered its charms in the 1930s, when big names like Cary Grant and Gloria Swanson had homes here, along with frequent visitors Clark Gable, Charlie Chaplain, and Greta Garbo. Over the next few decades, a host of others followed, including Frank Sinatra, Bing Crosby, Bob Hope, Liberace, Elvis, and Marilyn Monroe.

But Hollywood aside, Palm Springs has another important distinction: The “Mecca of Modernism.” For anyone who loves the mid-century modern style—and we do—a visit to Palm Springs is like stepping back in time to post-World War II America, where famous architects created homes that are enduring masterpieces of design.

A harmonious blending of modern materials with the desert environment combined to create a new standard of leisure living. Speaking of which, did you know there are more swimming pools per capita in Palm Springs than any other city in the nation? There are about 40,000 within the city limits.

If you come here in the summer, chances are you’ll be seeking out one of those pools. Temperatures during this time regularly hit 110 degrees and above (in 2024 they recorded a record high: 124 degrees on July 5). Yearly, the area averages 300 days of sunshine and less than 5 inches of rain. Winters are pleasantly warm with cool desert nights.

A MID-CENTURY MODERN RETREAT

While looking for a place to stay, we randomly picked The Three Fifty Hotel (named for its street address), a boutique, 10-room, mid-century retreat that’s close to downtown and walking distance to the famous Ingelside Estate (more on that later). With a big, inflatable duck in the pool, set against a backdrop of the St. Jacinto Mountains, we felt the Palm Springs vibe right away.

We had heard about how great the lifestyle was here from a good friend, Dave, who left Montana and Texas to settle here. A reason for the move was how accepting Palm Springs is of everyone.

“As a gay married man, I went from being ‘the gay in the room’ to just another guy in the room,” he told me. With one of the highest number of same-sex couples in the country, Palm Springs takes pride in being a welcoming LGBTQ+ travel destination, with a number of festivals and special events. Dave was happy to give us some recommendations for our visit. Here’s just a sampling:

Golf. While Florida and Myrtle Beach like to claim the title of golf capital of the world, Palm Springs is right there with them, boasting over 130 golf courses. For almost 50 years, starting in 1965, the Bob Hope Classic was a major PGA Tour event, drawing celebrities like Bing Crosby, Sammy Davis Jr., Dean Martin, and Bill Clinton. A story is told about eccentric comedian Harpo Marx, who one hot day decided to shed his clothes and play a round of golf naked at Tamarisk Country Club, where he was a member. His son recalled he didn’t even wear his golf shoes. Let’s hope he had plenty of sunscreen.

Aerial Tramway. Love spectacular scenery? Like hiking in the cool mountain air? Head for the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, billed as “the world’s largest rotating tram car.” Take in views of Chino Canyon as you ride just over two miles to Mountain Station; elevation, 8,516 feet in Mt. San Jacinto State Park. At the top are restaurants, observation decks, a natural history museum and gift shop, along with 50 miles of hiking trails. I took the sunset trip, which revealed a blanket of twinkling lights in the valley below. Conceived by Francis Crocker in the 1930s, the tram was completed in 1963 and hailed as “the eighth wonder of the world.”

Take a Home Tour. Don’t be afraid to be a tourist and take a tour of the fabulous mid-century architecture on display. Among the celebrity houses you’ll see will be the famous “House of Tomorrow,” where Elvis and Priscilla honeymooned, and Frank Sinatra’s home, Twin Palms, where it’s said Sinatra would raise a Jack Daniels flag to signal cocktail hour or a party. To immerse yourself in all things mid-century, plan to attend Modernism Week, an 11-day cultural festival held each February, with an abbreviated version in October, that includes lectures, films and behind the scene tours that go inside selected homes.

Joshua Tree National Park. Located 45 miles east of Palm Springs, and named for the trees found in the Mojave Desert, visitors here can hike, rock climb, camp, and explore historical sites. Named an International Dark Sky Park, it’s the perfect venue to stargaze under clear desert skies. Be sure and check the weather reports: Sudden rainstorms forced the park to close on our visit.

Visit Idyllwild. This town in the San Jacinto Mountains, about an hour’s drive from Palm Springs, is what Dave described as “magical.” Complementing its forested hiking trails, rock climbing, and camping is its small town charm filled with specialty shops, art galleries, and local performers. For wine lovers, there’s Middle Ridge Winery, and if your thing is chocolate, there’s El Buen Cacao bean-to-bar Chocolate Factory. And did I mention the town’s unofficial dog mayor? That would be Mayor Max III, a golden retriever.

BY GERRY BARKER